VeggieHarvest

Brussels sprouts are an annual cool-season crop, hardy to frosts and light freezes. There are two basic varieties: (1)the dwarf ("Jade Cross") which matures early and is winter hardy, but more difficult to harvest and (2) the taller ("Long Island Improved"), which is less hardy but easier to harvest. Brussels sprouts have shallow roots, so as they become top heavy, you may need to stake them, particularly if exposed to strong winds. As with other brassicas, Brussels Sprouts are susceptible to pests and diseases that must be kept under control early in the season, also composting their roots should be avoided.

Rotate at least on a 3 year basis, preferably 7 years. This vegetable is high in calcium and iron, as well as a good source of vitamins A and C.

Where to grow Brussels Sprouts

Brussels sprouts are a cool-season vegetable, and should not be grown where the summers are long, hot and dry.

Recommended Varieties of Brussels Sprouts:

Jade Cross; Long Island Improved

Soil for Brussels Sprouts

Average garden soil enriched with compost and rotted manure, the same type of the soil that will support all members of the cabbage family.

Planting Brussels Sprouts

Germination in 4-10 days.

When: Start seed indoors in early May so plants are ready to set out in June or early July. The sprouts develop best in cool weather.
How: In rows 3 feet apart, with 30 inches between the plants.

How Brussels Sprouts grow

This is one of the strangest looking vegetables. The plant produces tiny little cabbage heads in the axils of the leaves along a strong central stalk. As the sprouts develop the leaves are broken off, so that eventually what appears is a fat, upright stem covered with clusters of sprouts and topped with long greed leaves, much like a shortened palm tree. Sprouts develop from the bottom of the plant upward.

Cultivating Brussels Sprouts

Keep weed free with shallow cultivation or heavy mulching. Grow in the same manner as all cabbage family plants. As soon as the lower sprouts begin to mature, pinch out the growing shoot at the top of each plant (not the entire top leaf). This will stop the top from growing and encourage the sprouts to ripen along the stalk.

Harvesting Brussels Sprouts

3 months. The sprouts will mature from the bottom up.  When sprouts first appear, the lower leaf should be cut off. The sprouts should be picked green when about an inch or so in diameter. To pick them, twist them off. Each plant should yield about 1 quart of sprouts. Harvest continues well into the cold fall months. Light snow does not seem to stop their developing, and even improves their flavor. Harvests of frozen sprouts from plants in January have been reported.

For maximum vitamin C, harvest when the temperature is around freezing. Some say never to harvest unless you've had at least two frosts, because frost improves flavor. It has also been reported that sprouts can be harvested through the summer and still be tender, if continuously picked when they reach the size of marbles. If you want to harvest all at once instead of continuously, cut or pinch off the stalk top 4-8 weeks before your intended harvest time. After harvest, remove the entire plant from the ground to minimize the chance of disease next season. Some gardeners in severely cold climates may prefer to dig plants still loaded with sprouts and keep them in a cool, light place where they will continue to ripen.

Pests for Brussels Sprouts

Same for cabbage

- Root Maggot - Use a ground spray or granules of diazinon at planting time; or place 3 inch tar paper squares around each seedling when transplanting to cover the soil areas; or keep the ground dusted with wood ash.
- Cabbage butterflies/worms - controlling cabbage worms is suprisingly easy.  Cover susceptible crops with a floating row cover when planting and leave it in place until harvest.
- Aphids - spray with rotenone or pyrethrum
- Cutworms - Use stiff paper collars around transplants to extend at least 1 inch below the soil line.
- Flea beetles - Dust with wood ash or flour dust; spray with rotenone.

Diseases for Brussels Sprouts

Same for cabbage

Soil fungicides are somewhat e effective on cabbage diseases, but they are expensive, sold in large quantity, and not practical for small home garden use, unless a great deal of cabbage is grown.

- Club root fungus - Most frequent in soggy or acid soil. Grow only in well-drained soil; follow crop rotation practices; lime to keep soil pH at a neutral 7.
- Yellows - A soil-borne diseases; choose resistant varieties.
- Black rot - Bacteria born on seed; buy only from reputable seed dealers or bedding plant growers; rotate crops.
- Blackleg - Bacteria spreads from infected plants, garden tools, and leftover debris. Follow crop rotation.