VeggieHarvest.com

A guide to growing and  harvesting vegetables in your backyard

Asparagus

Beans

Beets 

Broccoli

Brussels Sprouts

Cabbage

Carrots

Cauliflower

Celery

Corn

Cucumber

Eggplant

Kale

Lettuce

Melons

Onions

Peas

Peppers

Potatoes

Spinach

Squash

Sweet Potatoes

Tomatoes

 


How to Grow Kale

Temperature
   Germination 45-95 F
   For Growth60-65 F
Soil and Water
Fertilizer -Heavy feeder, use compost
Side-dressing - Apply when plants are 1/3 grown
pH6.0-7.0
Water heavy
Measurements
Planting depth 1/2"
Root depth 6-12"
Height12-18"
Width 8-12"
Space between plants
In beds 15-18"
In rows 18-24"
Space between rows24-46"
Average plants per person4
Harvest
Harvest younger leaves from the middle and work your way up the stalk as it grows.  Keep some of the leaves on the bottom to feed the growth on the top.  You can also harvest the plant all at once by cutting its stem near the bottom.  
First Seed starting Date: 52-108 days before last frost date
Last Seed Starting Date: 94-108 Days before first frost date
Companions 
Companions: Artichoke, beet, bush bean, celery, cucumber, lettuce, onion, peas, potato, spinach
Incompatibles: Pole beans, strawberry, tomato

Storage Requirements
For fresh storage, don't wash leaves.  For drying, cut the leaves into strips and steam for 2-5 minutes.  Spread on trays no more than 1/2" thick and dry.  If using an oven set the temperature to below 145 F; check and turn every hour.  
Fresh
TemperatureHumidityStorage Life
32 F95-100%2-3 weeks
32-40 F80-90%10 months (only fair taste)
Preserved
MethodTasteShelf Life
Cannedgood12+ months
Frozengood12 months
Driedfair12+ months


An easy vegetable to grow, it is generally more disease and pest resistant than other brassicas, although it can experience similar problems.  Kale also occupies less space than other brassicas.  Use it as a spinach substitute in a wide variety of dishes.  Kale maintains body  and crunch so can be used in dishes where spinach might not be suitable; its especially delicious in stir-fry dishes.  It is recommended to cook over high heat to bring out the best flavor and prevent bitterness.  Many specialty growers are planting kale in wide beds only 1/2 to 12 inches apart and harvesting kale small as salad greens.  In England, close plantings of kale have been shown to prevent aphid infestations through visual masking. 

Where to grow:
Almost anywhere in the United States where there is a cool fall growing season.  It is a cool-season crop, hardy to frosts and light freezes.  Kale's flavor is reported to improve and sweeten with frost.
 
Varieties:
There are 2 types:  Scotch, an early kale with deeply curled, blue green leaves, (Dwarf Blue Curled), and Siberian, a later type with smoother, gray green leaves (Dwarf Siberian).  There also are ornamental kales, grown particularly for garden display in late summer and early fall when the annuals begin to wane.  The leaves are deeply curled and beautifully tinted with pastel colors ranging from emerald green to soft lilac to reds to whites.  The leaves may be eaten but are not as succulent as the drop varieties.
 
Soil:
The ideal is a fertile, well-drained loam.  Clay types can be improved with generous amounts of compost and well-rotted manure worked in to spade depth.
 
Planting:
Germination in 7-10 days.
When:  Start in midsummer for a late-fall winter crop.
 
How:  In rows 18 inches to 2 feet apart.  When the seedlings are 3 or more inches high, then plants to 10 inches apart and use the thinnings for salads or as a cooked vegetable.
 
How it grows:
Like collards, kale develops attractive leaves from a central stem, which grows a foot or so tall.
 
Culture:
Cultivate shallowly or mulch heavily to keep down weeds.
 
Harvest:
1 month.  Leaf color is the best sign of crop readiness.  Rich green leaves of firm texture are ready for cutting.  If too dark and heavy, the leaves are tough and not as flavorful.  Cut the leaves frequently.  When cold weather begins, mulch the plants with straw, salt hay, or the like, they will continue producing well into winter, and they may even taste more flavorful.
 
Pests: (Same as Cabbage)
 
 - Root Maggot:  Place 3 inch tar paper squares around each seedling when transplanting to cover the soil areas; or keep the ground dusted with wood ash. 
 - Cabbage butterflies/worms - Use biological control BT (Bacillus Thuringiensis) or dust with rotenone. 
 - Aphids - Spray with rotenone or pyrethrum
 - Cutworms - Use stiff paper collars around transplants to extend at least 1 inch below the soil line.
 - Flea beetles - Dust with wood ash or flour dust; spray with rotenone. 
 
Diseases: (Same as Cabbage)
 
Although kale is usually diseases and pest free, some gardeners won't compost any brassica roots to prevent spreading of clubroot and other soil-borne diseases.  Pull and destroy infected plants.  Kale is not as likely as other brassicas to suffer from clubroot, but if you experience problems, be sure to rotate planting so they're not in the same 10 foot radius for at least 3 years, preferably closer to 7 years.  Soil fungicides are somewhat effective on cabbage diseases, but they are expensive, sold in large quantity, and not practical for small home garden use, unless a great deal of cabbage is grown. 
 
 - Club root fungus - Most frequent in soggy or acid soil.   Grow only in well-drained soil; follow crop rotation practices; lime to keep soil pH at a neutral 7. 
 - Yellows - A soil-borne diseases; choose resistant varieties. 
 - Black rot - Bacteria born on seed; buy only from reputable seed dealers or bedding plant growers; rotate crops. 
 - Blackleg - Bacteria spreads from infected plants, garden tools, and leftover debris.  Follow crop rotation.